Wednesday, 17 July The posthumous history of Voltaire's heart. Imagine the consternation when the statue began to omit a noxious odour! The explanation? Voltaire's heart preserved in its base was making its presence felt In the 17th century it was a common tribute to remove the heart of a great person, from Keats to Byron and Chopin.
The brains of Stalin and Einstein have also been saved. But does Voltaire belong in this organ-removal club?
The place is smoky and packed with locals and ex-patriates: painters, a gallery owner, filmmakers, a psychologist. Everyone knows about Voltaire, of course. But not one person has heard about his heart. I imagine what it must look like.
A -year-old shriveled black truffle, lying on folds of crushed green velvet. He gestures out the courtyard to a windowed wall.
I think. I storm across the courtyard and peer in the windows. The elegant room sits empty except for a table and chairs, two stone busts of young Voltaire, and a statue of a balding old Voltaire, sitting in a chair with a sly smirk on his face. From here, head south, first going along the Rue des Petits Champs. Cycle across Place des Victoires and turn right into Rue du Louvre. Carry on to Pont au Change.
Go straight ahead until you're facing Notre-Dame cathedral. Drop your bike at the borne beside the square, on Rue d'Arcole. Next, head south across Pont au Double. The crypt gathers the shrines of over 70 illustrious Frenchmen, including Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas and our old friend Voltaire, whose carcass — or what remains of it — can finally rest in peace here.
Now retrace your steps towards Boulevard St-Michel for a particularly creepy rendezvous. Here, find the Chapelle des Lazaristes, identifiable by its tall green doors next to no.
Here lies the fresh-looking corpse of Saint Vincent de Paul, patron saint of the poor. While his skeleton was preserved in its entirety, his face and hands were covered in wax and moulded to resemble the deceased, giving the disturbing impression that he passed away only minutes ago.
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Subway Voltaire Metro Station. Subway Charonne Metro Station. Subway Saint-Amboise Metro Station. Subway Richard Lenoir Metro Station. Subway Ledru-Rollin Metro Station.
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